It’s Pimm’s Time

Something the British Isles and Wisconsin have in common is that the arrival of summer can be more a state of mind than the actual weather outside. In England the season officially begins with the first utterance of “Make mine a Pimm’s.” For many in the UK, Pimm’s is the drink of choice at summer events such as Wimbledon (15,000 served each day during the tournament), the Henley Regatta and Glyndebourne. For me, that first idyllic day when I conclude that warm weather is really here to stay (or at least am so flushed with spring fever that I can overlook that it really might snow again) has to be toasted with Pimm’s.

Whenever the subject of Pimm’s comes up inevitably someone asks “What is it?” Even many Pimm’s fans have no idea. Like Chartreuse, Galliano and other proprietary brands its exact formula is a well-guarded secret. Most often, “Pimm’s” specifically refers to Pimm’s No. 1, a gin-based beverage with a 25% alcohol content and flavored with citrus, bitters and quinine.

Its inventor, James Pimm, ran an oyster house in London in the 1840s and started selling his libation there as a tonic. By 1851 he had come up with two more varieties. In addition to the original—now dubbed Pimm’s No. 1, he added Scotch whiskey-based Pimm’s No. 2 and brandy-based Pimm’s No. 3. With the commercial bottling, of Pimm’s, its popularity spread across the British Empire. Like gin and tonic—no doubt because of its quinine content—it was especially fashionable in warm climates such as India. In the 1960s two more varieties were added to the line—rye whiskey-based Pimm’s No. 5 and vodka-based Pimm’s No. 6. Today, only the original and most popular No. 1 and vodka-based No. 6 remain in production. Recently, however, a new Winter Pimm’s based on the old brandy-based No. 3 was introduced.
The best known use for Pimm’s is in a Pimm’s Cup which in England is always made with Pimm’s No. 1, lemonade and most often garnished with an orange slice, cucumber and mint. The lemonade referred to here is not the American kind made from juiced fresh lemons, sugar and water. In England and most of Europe, “lemonade” refers to a sparkling lemon-flavored soda similar to 7up but without the lime flavoring. Whites is the big brand in the UK and I’ve never found it here but you can purchase sparkling lemonade imported from France which is virtually identical— Lorina is a popular brand and available a Jenifer Street Market and other places around town. Otherwise, you can substitute 7up. A British barman will often add a measure of gin to beef up the drink’s modest alcohol content.

Rarely are the ingredients for a Pimm’s Cup actually measured out. The ratio of Pimm’s No. 1 to mixer is a matter of personal taste. The finished drink ought to resemble the color of iced tea, weak or strong.

There is some contention about the proper garnish of a Pimm’s Cup. Cucumber—either a slice or spear—is a must, however. Supposedly, the drink was originally garnished with borage, a green herb that has a cucumber-like flavor. In addition to the standard orange and mint, some espouse the more fruit the better, adding strawberries, lemons, limes and apples to the mix.

In this country, Pimm’s Cups are often concocted using ginger ale but the English would call this drink a Pimm’s Ginger (and garnished with lemon and mint). The Pimm’s Cup is a specialty of the Napoleon House, an old and historic bar in New Orleans. Their version is made with Pimm’s No. 1, American-style lemonade, 7up and garnished with a cucumber slice. In Madison, stop by the Capitol Chophouse to enjoy a Pimm’s Cup in the bar or on the terrace.

Muffuletta on My Mind

A week ago I was in New Orleans celebrating Mardi Gras. Any time I go to New Orleans I have to have a muffuletta, preferably from the Mecca for all aficionados of this sandwich, Central Grocery. If you don’t know what it is, it is a round sandwich of ham, salami, Provolone and Swiss cheese with olive salad. The olive salad is what sets it apart from a submarine or hoagie.

Its roots are in the large Italian-American community that inhabited the French Quarter in the early part of the 20th Century. What makes it special is you really can’t get a real muffuletta outside of New Orleans. Why is that? The distinctive flat, round bread the sandwich is made on, not surprisingly called a muffuletta loaf. Unlike traditional Italian or French bread, it’s more chewy than crispy. Inevitably when you find a muffuletta elsewhere it’s made on French Bread, and more often than not, will break your jaw when you bite into it.

Sometimes I just gotta have one and have experimented with a lot of substitutes for the bread. The best I’ve come up with is focaccia—texture’s better but the shape is all wrong. Or, I will use what they call a “rustic loaf” of French breach—thinner and flatter. I also use Kaiser rolls to make mini muffies, cutting them into quarters for finger food. Regardless, the finished sandwich needs to be wrapped in foil, a weight put on top and allowed to stand for a couple of hours before serving

In New Orleans the muffuletta is made with “Italian ham”—not prosciutto but a local product of boiled ham with a spice rub. If you make your own, boiled ham will work just fine. And, don’t go upscale with imported, expensive salami. The muffuletta is simple fare at its best.

You can buy olive salad in N.O. but not here so I’ve included a recipe. Traditionally, the sandwich is served cold but there are a handful of restaurants including the Napoleon House that serve a toasted version: unorthodox but not heresy.

The combination of flavors is a classic and Emeril has a great recipe for a muffuletta salad and Jim Schiavo of The Continental and I came up with our own recipe for a muffuletta pizza which is on the menu there.

What to eat with a muffuletta? Zapp’s Potato Chips (preferably the jalapeño flavored variety), of course (which they often have at Jenifer Street Market).

BTW Central Grocery ships their sandwiches via FedEx.

Central Grocery Olive Salad Recipe

1 gallon large pimento stuffed green olives, slightly crushed, well drained and chopped
1 quart jar pickled cauliflower, drained and sliced
2 small jars capers, drained
1 whole stalk celery, sliced diagonally
4 large carrots, peeled and thinly sliced diagonally
1 small jar celery seeds
1 small jar oregano
1 large head fresh garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 jar pepperoncini, drained (small salad peppers) left whole
1 pound large Greek black olives, chopped
1 jar cocktail onions, drained

Combine all the ingredients.

Makes a lot.

Olive Salad (Smaller Recipe)

1¼-inch slice of medium red onion, quartered
2 garlic cloves, peeled
¼ cup picked Italian vegetables
¼ cup green pimento-stuffed olives
¼ cup pitted Calamata olives
¼ cup pitted Greek olives
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon dried oregano
6 sprigs Italian parsley
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Put the onion in the food processor and turn the machine on and off until it is evenly chopped. With the motor running, drop the garlic through the feed tube and process until finely chopped.

Add the pickled vegetables, olives, olive oil, oregano, parsley and black pepper to the food processor. Turn the machine on and off just until the mixture is nicely chopped.

Transfer to a covered container and chill overnight. The olive salad will keep several weeks covered in the refrigerator.

Makes a reasonable amount.