It’s Pimm’s Time

Something the British Isles and Wisconsin have in common is that the arrival of summer can be more a state of mind than the actual weather outside. In England the season officially begins with the first utterance of “Make mine a Pimm’s.” For many in the UK, Pimm’s is the drink of choice at summer events such as Wimbledon (15,000 served each day during the tournament), the Henley Regatta and Glyndebourne. For me, that first idyllic day when I conclude that warm weather is really here to stay (or at least am so flushed with spring fever that I can overlook that it really might snow again) has to be toasted with Pimm’s.

Whenever the subject of Pimm’s comes up inevitably someone asks “What is it?” Even many Pimm’s fans have no idea. Like Chartreuse, Galliano and other proprietary brands its exact formula is a well-guarded secret. Most often, “Pimm’s” specifically refers to Pimm’s No. 1, a gin-based beverage with a 25% alcohol content and flavored with citrus, bitters and quinine.

Its inventor, James Pimm, ran an oyster house in London in the 1840s and started selling his libation there as a tonic. By 1851 he had come up with two more varieties. In addition to the original—now dubbed Pimm’s No. 1, he added Scotch whiskey-based Pimm’s No. 2 and brandy-based Pimm’s No. 3. With the commercial bottling, of Pimm’s, its popularity spread across the British Empire. Like gin and tonic—no doubt because of its quinine content—it was especially fashionable in warm climates such as India. In the 1960s two more varieties were added to the line—rye whiskey-based Pimm’s No. 5 and vodka-based Pimm’s No. 6. Today, only the original and most popular No. 1 and vodka-based No. 6 remain in production. Recently, however, a new Winter Pimm’s based on the old brandy-based No. 3 was introduced.
The best known use for Pimm’s is in a Pimm’s Cup which in England is always made with Pimm’s No. 1, lemonade and most often garnished with an orange slice, cucumber and mint. The lemonade referred to here is not the American kind made from juiced fresh lemons, sugar and water. In England and most of Europe, “lemonade” refers to a sparkling lemon-flavored soda similar to 7up but without the lime flavoring. Whites is the big brand in the UK and I’ve never found it here but you can purchase sparkling lemonade imported from France which is virtually identical— Lorina is a popular brand and available a Jenifer Street Market and other places around town. Otherwise, you can substitute 7up. A British barman will often add a measure of gin to beef up the drink’s modest alcohol content.

Rarely are the ingredients for a Pimm’s Cup actually measured out. The ratio of Pimm’s No. 1 to mixer is a matter of personal taste. The finished drink ought to resemble the color of iced tea, weak or strong.

There is some contention about the proper garnish of a Pimm’s Cup. Cucumber—either a slice or spear—is a must, however. Supposedly, the drink was originally garnished with borage, a green herb that has a cucumber-like flavor. In addition to the standard orange and mint, some espouse the more fruit the better, adding strawberries, lemons, limes and apples to the mix.

In this country, Pimm’s Cups are often concocted using ginger ale but the English would call this drink a Pimm’s Ginger (and garnished with lemon and mint). The Pimm’s Cup is a specialty of the Napoleon House, an old and historic bar in New Orleans. Their version is made with Pimm’s No. 1, American-style lemonade, 7up and garnished with a cucumber slice. In Madison, stop by the Capitol Chophouse to enjoy a Pimm’s Cup in the bar or on the terrace.

The View from My Window

July ...

... December

Simply Delicious

I love to cook but in summer the less time spent in the kitchen the better. I look forward to the abundance of fresh produce and grilling outdoors. So much of what we eat this time of year actually benefits from less preparation. Here are a few of my favorite summer dishes.

Appetizers. Fresh figs wrapped with prosciutto. Blend together cream cheese and lox, spread on crackers and top with avocado. Cut leftover cold cheese pizza into bite size squares and serve with a squeeze of lemon juice. Chill very large boiled and shelled shrimp; serve cold with fresh lemon. Sprinkle large flour tortillas with grated pepper jack cheese and toast on the grill … serve in wedges with guacamole and salsa. Puree a handful of fresh raspberries with sugar to taste in a blender … strain into a pitcher, add raspberry vodka and lemonade.

Tomato Salads. The season is brief so now is the time to enjoy tomatoes that taste like tomatoes. Most people are familiar with the Italian classic Caprese salad – fresh mozzarella, sliced tomatoes and basil. Try substituting paper-thin slices of lemons for the mozzarella. For an American version switch blue cheese for the mozzarella and add sliced red onions. Stuff whole tomatoes with a mixture of tuna (preferably packed in olive oil), lemon juice, chopped parsley and capers. Or, substitute stale bread crumbs for the tuna and add some chopped basil and garlic. And -- as weird as is sounds -- toss seeded tomato wedges with peeled and sliced peaches, sweet onion rings and cilantro.

Other Salads. Combine cubes of feta cheese and seeded watermelon with mint, a little chopped Serrano chile, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Grill a steak, slice thinly and serve over chopped romaine with crumbled blue cheese, a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon. Taco salad: chopped greens, tomatoes, onions, avocados, cilantro and drained canned black beans tossed with tortilla chips, grated cheese, lime juice and topped with sour cream. Barely cook green beans, blanch and chill …at serving time toss with ripe tomato wedges and a vinaigrette made with lots of basil and garlic. Grill zucchini and summer squash; toss with minced garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and a little red wine vinegar and serve at room temperature.

Chicken. Marinate cubes of boneless chicken in Patak’s tandoori paste, yogurt and lemon juice …thread on skewers and grill. Make a paste in the food processor using a bunch of cilantro (stems and all), a couple of cloves of garlic, black pepper and some fish sauce … spread on boneless thighs and marinate for a couple of hours then grill and serve with Thai sweet and sour chili sauce.

Meat. Rub a flank steak with chili powder, grill until medium rare and serve sliced with chili pepper jelly. Grill a 2-inch thick t-bone streak, sprinkle with coarse sea salt and drizzle with the best extra virgin olive oil (serves 2 to 3 fabulously). Marinate flatiron steaks in Tabasco sauce over night … drain, pat dry with paper towels and grill. Rub lamb cubes in cinnamon, coriander, cumin, nutmeg, salt and black pepper … skewer and grill; serve with yogurt flavored with mint and garlic.

Fish. Make tacos with grilled and chopped mahi mahi seasoned with chili powder and cumin. Stuff pita bread with crabmeat mixed with mayo, chopped chives and fresh tarragon. Make ceviche from fresh sea scallops, minced red bell pepper, lime zest and lime juice. Tahitian-style poisson cru: cubed ahi tuna, 2 parts lime juice to 1 part coconut milk with chopped tomato, cucumbers and scallions.

Pasta. The all-time summer favorite …pasta and pesto: in the blender puree basil leaves, a little garlic, walnuts, parmesan and olive oil. Chop fresh tomatoes and sauté in butter, adding shredded basil right before serving over spaghetti. Sauté garlic, broccoli and shelled shrimp in olive oil and serve over linguine with shaved parmesan.

Desserts. Peel and slice fresh peaches or apricots, sauté in honey and serve over coffee ice cream. Sweetened to taste a pint of sour cream with brown sugar and flavor with a little vanilla and/or bourbon … use as a dip for fresh strawberries. Make peach shortcake using store-bought pound cake and whipped cream. Cut off the top of a milk carton, put in a bottle of lemoncello, fill with water and place in the freezer over night.

Or really simple, Fresco, L’Etoile, Harvest and Lombardino’s all have great summer menus featuring local farm products.

The Italian Dinner

When something is enjoyable it becomes meaningful and is repeated. We all have dining rituals like Thanksgiving and Christmas dinner or annual events marked with families, friends and food. I seem to have a lot more than most people I know. There use to be the Guy Fawkes Day Dinner, Bastille Day Picnic and the Keep Labor Day Boring Potluck There is the sometime Mardi Gras Breakfast at Brennan’s and Derby Day Party. Recently, Rib-o-rama has made the repertoire. One celebration, however, I have observed for two decades, nonstop without interruption: The Italian Dinner.

The date for this repast is not set. It occurs sometime in July or August and commemorates nothing. It came to pass in 1970 as I lusted for la dolce vita, something I’d discovered on my first trip to Italy the year before. Dinner was at 10 with course after course of exquisite food, fine wines and service as attentive as a doting aunt without her obtrusiveness. What’s more it all took place outside, on an enchanting piazza under a pizza pie moon.

So now each summer I mount the annual Italian Dinner. It’s been happening for so long that the dinner is older than many of the guests who have changed over the years as have the venues. In recent years it has taken place on Dick Wagner’s deck, overlooking his romantic gardens and Lake Monona. The menu is always different and Pan Italian (I love the food from all the regions of Italy). But one constant is the feast always begins with Bellini, a heavenly cocktail of white peach juice and prosecco – sparkling wine from the Veneto – first concocted by Harry’s Bar in Venice. It may be dining al fresco but there are no paper plates or plastic forks, but in the best Italian tradition, crisp starched linen, sparkling crystal and an abundance of cutlery. Antipasiti, pasta, pesche, i primi, i secondi, la verdure, insalata, il fromaggio, dolci e la frutta . . . the meal marches and the vino bottles pile up like lasagna. Yet, there’s always still room for a little glass of Amaro Averna or limoncello frozen in a block of ice and lots of sighs.

A cookout with bratwurst is nice but The Italian Dinner is amore.

So if your invitation to my 39th Italian Dinner got lost in the mail, I suggest you head over to Lombardino’s. The menu is seasonal, the food movingly Italian and the décor opera buffa.

Bellini Cocktail

Ripe white peaches
Peach schnapps
Chilled prosecco

Skin the peaches by dipping in simmering water for a few seconds and then placing under cold running water. Put the flesh in an electric juicer,

Put 2 tablespoons of peach juice and 2 tablespoons of peach schnapps in a tall glass and add prosecco. Stir and serve.

Out on the Street

When it comes to eating outdoors, American habits are closely tied to technology. It was the invention of the automobile that popularized leisure travel. The romance of camping and cooking over an open fire became all the rage. Ironically, it was car man Henry Ford, an avid camper, who invented the charcoal briquette which in turn literally fired backyard barbecues.

For many years, the options in this country for eating outside at a restaurant were very limited to say the least. Communities with large German populations often had beer gardens for summer drinking prior to the invention of air conditioning. New Orleans has a distinguished history of courtyard restaurants. In mild climates such as California and Florida there is a tradition of patio restaurants. There was even a long-running French restaurant in Chicago, Jacque’s, probably best known for its open air dining.

But the European concept of the sidewalk café – actually eating out on the pavement in an urban area – has only taken hold here during the past couple of decades. Madison with its lakes has always had a love affair with summer. If you ever want to take out-of-town guests to one place where they can instantly savor what life here is all about, take them to the Memorial Union Terrace. Not surprisingly, once all the barriers to restaurants setting up tables on the sidewalk were eliminated – concerns about public health, sanitation, accessibility and liability – sidewalk cafés here as elsewhere were an instant hit.

Today, sidewalk cafes are so popular that there is a website exclusively devoted to rating them in various cities. As of yet, they haven’t included Madison on their list, so here are my suggestions of where to go when and for what:

Best Sidewalk Café for Upscale Dining: Harvest, 21 N. Pinckney Street. The view of the capitol is as spectacular as the cooking. This is prime real estate for Concerts on the Square.


Best Sidewalk Café for Casual Dining: Brocach, 7 W. Main Street. Its authentic Irish façade add real European flavor to the Concourse.


Best Sidewalk Café for Brunch: Café Continental, 108 King Street. On a sunny Saturday or Sunday a stop here is reason enough to get up and get out, not to mention the Farmers’ Market.


Best Sidewalk Café for Fish Fry: Orpheum, 216 State Street. All-you-can-eat bluegill and all State Street has to offer at for one price.


Best Sidewalk Café for Drinking (Booze): Genna’s, 105 W. Main Street. Yuppies and Xsters yuck it up as they watch the world go by.


Best Sidewalk Café for Coffee: Steep n’ Brew, 544 State Street.
There’s usually an interesting and eclectic clientele here and a busker or two nearby to entertain you.


Best Sidewalk Café for People Watching: Hawk’s, 425 State Street. The largest of the State Street sidewalk cafes, it’s always got a buzz on.


Best Lakeside Dining and Drinking, Mendota: Nau-ti-gal, 5360 Westport Road. Whether you come by boat, SUV or on a tandem bike, the party atmosphere can’t be beat.



Best Lakeside Dining and Drinking, Monona: Paisan’s, 131 W. Wilson Street. A big terrace with a big view and “when the moon hits your eye …”


Best Suburban Restaurant Patio: The Continental, 2784 S. Fish Hatchery Road, Fitchburg. Sidewalks can be in short supply in the suburbs but The Continental’s commodious piazza has well-spaced dining tables plus a cozy area for drinks with comfortable seating surrounding a fire pit.

On A Roll

I’ve started out summer a little grumpy. (Okay, grumpier.) The reason is I won’t be going to my beloved Province-town this year. P-town sits at the very tip of Cape Cod and for me is the fulfillment of everything I enjoy and look forward to about summer. I could go on and on about why this is so but won’t. Since the focus here is food, I’ll stick to that and especially one favorite item: the lobster roll.

First of all, I’m not talking about sushi. A lobster roll is the sandwich of choice throughout New England. The closer I get to the ocean, the better they seem to taste. Correctly speaking, there are two types of lobster rolls. If you’re a purist, a lobster roll is simply hunks of lobster meat drizzled with melted mutter on a toasted roll. The other version is a lobster salad roll made with mayonnaise and a little celery. They both have their fans and detractors. I love them both.

For whatever reason, I can’t find an authentic lobster roll away from the East Coast. Maine lobsters are sold around the world but not real lobster rolls. Elsewhere, I’ve had all kinds of wonderful lobster sandwiches … at fancy restaurants … made by well-intentioned and kind friends trying to appease my cravings (and shut me up) … and yes, even by me (and I believe I can cook just about anything). But, none of these best efforts resulted in an authentic lobster roll. None were as appealing or as satisfying.

Perhaps the reason for my fascination with lobster rolls is because I can’t just go out and have one anytime I want one. Strawberries and asparagus use to have a similar allure … something I looked forward to with the changing of the seasons. Now they are omnipresent and not near as sweet, succulent or desirable as they once were. No small part of my infatuation is the quest to find the perfect lobster roll. I’ve come close to finding it but always know in my gut that there’s something better out there and I have to keep looking for it. The photo of the lobster roll is from a clam shack in Brewster on Cape Cod called Cobie’s, a find for sure.

If you’re unfamiliar lobster rolls be forewarned that they’re not only addictive but expensive as well. Like oil, their price index is on the rise. Unlike gasoline, I don’t ever remember lobster rolls being cheap. Locals always brag about the ‘good old days’ when lobsters were so plentiful you couldn’t give them away but that is even before my time. Today a quality lobster roll will set you back about 15 bucks. Use to be they always came with chips or fries but more often than not now that will cost extra. You can find them just about everywhere in New England ... yes, there is a McLobster roll at you know where … but if you encounter an economy lobster roll be wary. New Englanders are known for being thrifty but also know a lot about lobsters, especially what they are worth.
I try to tell myself if I lived in Provincetown that I’d be longing for bratwurst right now. I don’t think so.

As long as I’m reminiscing about P-town I have to mention the Sea Breeze, for many years the drink of choice there and something I can get at most bars in Madison. But, the venue of choice to consume a Sea Breeze is on the outdoor terrace of the Boatslip in Provincetwn at their daily tea dance in summer. This cocktail is made with vodka, grapefruit juice and a splash of cranberry juice. It’s a refreshing summer cooler and not as cloying as a Cosmo (a drink many claim originated in Provincetown). Over the years and after many trips I’ve development my own variation that I call a P-towner. Here is the recipe.

P-towner

2 ounces orange vodka
4 ounces cranberry juice
1 ounce grapefruit juice
Lime wedge

Fill an old fashioned glass with ice and add the orange vodka, cranberry juice and grapefruit juice. Stir and serve with the lime wedge.

Makes 1 drink.